If the theme for Paris Spring Summer 2013 collections is back to basics, then Louis Vuitton’s SS 2013 ready-to-wear collection has succeeded in doing exactly that….and of course more. The show was broadcast live on the web was staged in the Louvre – but the focal point was not the art – or the venue. It was something much simpler and in many ways much more complex. The four imposing Denon escalators that are situated in the main hall under the pyramids served as a launch-pad of sorts – feeding the models onto a yellow cheque stage.
Of course what could be simpler, more back to basics than the plain Louis Vuitton cheque? And thus the show opened two by two they descended in simply cut, chequered, long and short but not without geometrical precision. I wondered as they descended in pair after pair whether Marc Jacobs was channelling the bible, his creations stepping off a Noah’s Ark that perhaps had itself weathered some kind of storm.
After the deluge of squares and rectangles, suddenly there were….flowers.
Simple, stencil like flower prints adorned ever more simply cut jackets and skirts – all very clearly defined. We then returned to more cheques, an explosion of cheques this time mixed with solid blocks of colour and in other places combined with sheer accents. The square scalloped neckline featured along with a princess puff at the shoulder.
It all seemed so simple, so back to basics that I have no doubt that much of this collection will appeal very broadly to the sensibilities of Europeans seeking a more austere look during what is still very tough economic times.
But of course that is the genius of Marc Jacobs – what appears to the rest of us as complex is at its core actually simple, while what seems simple, and pure is, in reality, exceedingly complex.