After an evening rounded off in intricate feathers and headpieces at Aurelio Costarella, quadruple hibiscus denim at Ksubi, and explosive neon at Ginger & Smart, the fashion crowd kicked up their heels, whether metaphorically at an after party, or quite literally, in bed. Today was a big day, and I know I was glad to have had my beauty sleep.
First up was fashion week veterans and two time USA store holders Zimmermann. Titled ‘Clique Clique’, the collection was inspired by young renegade women. Exuding that signature sense of femininity, this season saw less of their digital print reliance, and more urban attitude. A roster of top Aussie models, including this weeks hardest worker Rachel Rutt, paraded their fem meets downtown wears.
Peplums, texture and elegance abound, Maticevski was up next and it was a feast of va-va-voom glamour, with a colour palette of nudes, pinks, black and an injection of lime. Feminine silhouettes and immaculate fabrications proved Maticevski the master of polished and pretty.
The intimate Box space was transformed with bare branches and eery dry ice for Flowers For A Vagabond. Models entered and posed on raised podiums, in a collection full of tattoo inspired prints and metallic fringing. Wet look hair topped off the black heavy collection, with a colour injection of hot pink, realised in a dramatic pleated maxi.
As one of my favourite collections last year, I was intrigued to see how Michael Lo Sordo would develop his look this season. Continuing his use of sheer fabrics and digital prints, Lo Sordo played with futurism and tailoring successfully to create a sense of sharp juxtaposition. Using metallic silvers and blues, the collection was not so much a departure from Lo Sordo’s previous softness, just a next generation update.
Franco-files Toi et Moi made their individual MBFWA debut next, starting the show was a mini Madeline like lone girl singing in French, aided by a guitarist. Setting the Parisian tone, a collection of cute black and white stripes, neon sequins and plenty of patterned skinny pants followed. Stylist Pip Edwards’ stamp was all over the show, with chic pointed pumps and black velvet chokers giving the show a slight Isabel Marant rock edge.
By Johnny, the debut collection designed by Johnny Schembri, projected a pine lime and lilac fantasy, with peplums and prints galore. Felt tip pen prints clashed with florals all came together on a slick and sporty silhoutte, topped only by the obvious quality craftsman ship.
Master craftswoman Magdalena Velevska presented her Phosphorescence collection offsite at the Maritime Museum, with audiences treated to a delightful mix of texture, fluid silhouettes, impeccable construction and…face applique? Something for the brave to try, I think I’ll be sticking to the colourfully embroidered garments, all said to be derived from 1950s bathing suits and loud 1960s prints.
Riding the wave of publicity and praise she’s received since dressing a number of Hollywood starlets this past awards season, evening wear aficionado Johanna Johnson didn’t disappoint on the dazzle (perhaps filling the void left by absent bling King Alex Perry?) Showing to a full house, it was all out curvaceous glamour, with sage coloured feathers, dazzling Cleopatra sequins and lashings of bias cut silk. Beautifully constructed gowns, paired with diamond encrusted flapper headdresses were all glamour, with a veiled Samantha Harris closing the show as a silver sequined bride.
Madonna, Marilyn and Blanche Dubois all in one place was the promise of Jayson Brunsdon’s show, presented by Myer as an installation at The Box. While he can’t bring back Marilyn, he certainly captured elements of these unique ladies in a collection exploring a loss of control, falling in love and all the sensuality and passion that goes with it. Leopard, lace and leather gloves were presented through an installation rather than a runway show, making use of the intimate space with vintage chairs and steamy tableaux.
More glamour to come as Bowie closes out the day…stayed tuned tomorrow for more detailed coverage of all the latest shows and presentations.
All images by Alice McConnell.