MBFWA SS 2012: Zsadar

‘He’s more than an aesthetic; he’s an ethos’ Style.com‘s Tim Blanks said of Rick Owens in 2011. Looking beyond beauty to the fundamental values of a person, people, culture or movement, Paris based Rick Owens may be an enigma and a world away from ‘Mysteries of the Organism’ designer Shane Newton but still the thought processes behind Shane’s collection reminded me of a mash up of Rick Owens and jeweller Dominic Jones.

The use of earthy block colours and an emphasis on a natural silhouette which may as well be part of the body itself. Shane’s ideal beauty is an anti-beauty but even at that his collection is still one you’d want to wear .. and share. It’s androgynous. Drop pants and the signature Zsadar asymmetrical shirts envelop the body in the same way silver exoskeleton harnesses provided a talking point amongst the crowd. Appearing first only subtly then boom! A hoodies dropped revealing an incredible silvery masterpiece. Like Dominic Jones my second reference, these silver pieces doubly convey strength as much as they do vulnerability.

Such is the meaning of ‘Mysteries of the Organism’ and the designers idea that ‘everything from nature derives from atoms’. As human beings this is something we’ve little to no control over but insofar as the career of Shane Newton, I feel this is a designer on the threshold of a successful career and undoubtedly he’s got a much stronger hold on his future that what we as humans do over the atoms from which were made.



About Isabelle Richards

Speak Your Mind